What holds your roof on, as the moment just the straps until the glue drys. Just about ready for final color after seam sealing.
The doors, boot, bonnet and rear roll-bar is painted and ready for color sanding. Now to put the body back on a body cart, and begin wet sanding it for final paint, as with most paint work it is 95% sanding and 5% painting.
The interior has been wet sanded and painted. Defiantly one of the more difficult areas on the car to paint as there are numerous hard to reach areas. The areas that will be seen (floor cross member and
rear pockets) after the car is completed will be color sanded and buffed, to match the exterior.
Got a splash of color on the underside. It was prepped, sealed, undercoated and painted red to match the final color of the car. Seems like an excessive amount of work for the bottom of the car, but I would rather be excessive and the customer surprised than to have a car rusting away in a few years. You may also notice that the seam have also been seam sealed, prior to paint.
After two days of block sanding the body is ready to come apart for final primer and wet sanding. The fender flairs have been scribed and fitted to the body, and the gaps all finalized. The body is sprayed down with a cleaner to check the reflections and body lines to ensure that after the car is shiny that it looks perfect.
The body is primed (again) and ready for the final block sanding. The front panel has been fixed and the spotwelds filled in giving a clean look to the lower front valence.
After a week of block sanding twice the end is near. The body was blocked down primered, and blocked again. Now it is ready for another coat of primer for a final block sanding. The reason for so many coats is to build up film thickness to sand off giving that laser straight body. Ripples are avoided by using the longest block for the area, and sanding in a crosshatch pattern.